Last day with the Cariocas (people from Rio de Janeiro)

My last day in Rio, I decided to take a tour of the largest favela in the city, Rochina.  Deciding to take this tour or not was a pretty big decision.  Last year, after being robbed, I really had no interest in anything to do with the favela, as I felt like it already came to me.  This year, my issue was more or less with not wanting to look at people like they were in a zoo.  I was assured that by doing the tour, you help fund educational programs and was told many people like to show their side of the city.  Besides those reasons, I was hesitant because a few days earlier a German tourist had been shot in the favela.  He had went in the favela by himself and took a photo of someone with a gun.  Really now.  Knowing I wouldn't be so stupid and with an incident like that causing an increase in police, I decided to go. 

I was picked up in a van from the tourist company and we were off. We arrived at the entrance to the favela and the first thing I noticed was how more developed it was than I anticipated.  There were actual supermarkets.  Then we opened the van door, and I noticed the smell.  It smelt like Division Street in Chicago the morning after St. Patrick's Day mixed with human waste.  

We then wandered down the labyrinth of streets.  The streets here are so narrow (no cars) and we had to constantly move out of the way as several people carried heavy parcels to stock the shops that were in the favelas. 

Our first stop was a school.  We didn't go in the school, but near it to see the view.  The kids could see us and enjoyed waving and clamming for attention.  Me, standing out as I did, was a main attraction for them.  I kept getting shouted at "gringa, gringa!", which apparently isn't so negative in Brazil, and when I wouldn't look at them (I didn't want to distract them from school), they tried throwing colored pencils at me to get my attention.  I ended up giving 8 colored pencils to the teacher when we were done.  Here is the view from the school.

The guide explained to us that there are 6 million people who live in Rio.  1 million live in favelas.  300,000 live in Rochina, the largest favela by population (the favela we were touring). There are 70 police who patrol Rochina.  There are over 720 favelas in Rio.  How about that for some emerging market statistics?  Anyway, the guide continued to explain how many people who live in the favelas come from the north and north east states, which are some of the poorest parts of the country.  So, for them, living in a favela was somewhat of a better option.  He said many of the homes had tvs with satellite dishes (satellite runs around $15usd/month) and other appliances.  It looked like to me there was a wide dispersion of levels of wealth in the favela as well as the rest of the city.  

After that, we stopped by a "samba circle" and watched some kids dance and donated money.  The tour was actually way different than I expected.  A lot of stopping into little shops and possibly making purchases.  But really, when I think about it, how else could you tour a favela?  

I would absolutely recommend this tour, not only for the great views, but it also allows you to have a new insight into the city.  

My last night in Rio was interesting.  Me and a friend went back to Santa Teresa to Bar de Mineiro for their famous caipirinha (passion fruit apparently is their specialty), codfish balls and feijoada (national dish of Brazil made with rice, beans, meat scraps with oranges and started by the slaves).  

We then went to Lapa to buy some more caipirinhas.  The vendor tried to sell them to us for 7 reals.  Normally, they are 5 reals.  I was not about to pay 7.  Usually if someone tries to sell to me for 7 (which happens about 1x a night), I tell them (in Portuguese) that everyone else sells for 5 and I do not like to ripped off because I am a gringa and then leave to buy from someone else.  But, my last night in Rio, I had a better idea.  I told the vendor if he showed me his way to make them, I would pay 7.  Here is how you make a caipirinha:

1. First, properly cut the limes. 

2. Add sugar.  

3.  Mash the lime and sugar together.

4. Add ice

5. Add cachessa.  It is about a 7-13 second pour, depending on size of drinks.

6. Shake it!!

7.  Enjoy!!

After enjoying our drink, we went to stop at a supermarket for more refreshments.  This night, I had my phone (I never bring out - and never will again!) as I needed an alarm to not miss my flight.  I went in the store, had my friend watch my phone, and when I came back, we headed out again.  No less than 3 minutes I asked for my phone.  My friend couldn't find it.  I had a panic attack and was going to lose my mind.  I have been phone-less and music-less for 10 days last year, but for 2 months?!?!  I had the cabby turn around, my friend ran in the store, I ran to the street and there it was.  Sitting on the side of the road.  Seriously, I have no idea how the heck that happened, but I am still in shock.  If you look away from your phone for 3 seconds, it can disappear.  I was so lucky!  That kind of put a damper on the night, but at least I had my phone. 

The next day, I was off to São Paulo!!!

I will update on that later!!

Tchau!